Summer sail 2023 II

Mandal to Talgje

Friday 28. July

Back in Mandal the weather had changed to sun and a light, warm breeze. Having the house with us means we can also invite friends to a meal and an evening of sharing and fellowship. We go way back with these good people, Marianne and Jon to the 70s, and Yvonne and Bjørn to the 90s.

While in Mandal, I also had a chance to add to my collection of old sewing machines. I got them for next to nothing. They seem to be working, but will need some cleaning and oiling. But all this is another story.

Saturday 29. July

The morning was sunny and warm. We left Mandal 9.30 a.m. after having topped up our water and diesel tanks. There was a light south east breeze, but not enough to fill the sails, so it was motoring almost all the way. Here are some images along the southernmost coastline of Norway, including some nice cabins on small islands.

Rounding Lindesnes in warm weather and calm sea.

Sailing into Korshamn.

Korshamn is an old fishing community. We came in through a narrow canal lined with small houses that used to be inhabited by fishermen, seamen and craftspeople until the end of last century. As the old people died or moved away, the next generations use them as summer cabins. They are very well preserved and restored, at the same time as keeping the old, tight community atmosphere. Here is from a walk through the village. The path literally took us through people’s gardens.

Sunday 30. July

Korshamn was a very nice place to visit, and we could have stayed longer. But we needed to move on. Our next destination was Rasvåg, a little community in a well protected bay on the island of Hidra. First we had to cross the open stretch around Lista, though. When we passed here last week, we had wonderful sailing in premium conditions. It was not too bad this time either, but the swell was from the side, and the wind more from ahead. We motored, with the help of a half rolled out foresail. It was good to eventually sail into the inlet outside of Rasvåg. We stopped the engine as we approached, gliding slowly and peacefully in through the narrow sound and behind the outer, protective islands. Coming in just by sail is one of the best things with travelling like this. You can hear the seagulls on the skerries and the constant humming of the waves breaking against the rocks. Sounds that we would not hear over the engine. I would not like to be out there in a winter storm, though!

The last passage into Rasvåg is narrow, but well marked.

We were lucky to be spotted by Lise Gry and Odd Geir, who used to be missionary colleagues in Tanzania. Lise is from Hidra, and they have taken over her father’s shop and converted it into a summer house. They invited us for a grill party, and Lise took us on a tour on almost every road on the west part of the island. She seems to know everybody and every house, we could not have had a better guide! Thank you both!

At the end of the day, a walk trough the neighbourhood in Rasvåg.

The pilot’s lookout cabin. Well secured for the storm.

Monday 31. July

A beautiful day! Lise had recommended a visit to Hågåsen, an area on the hills on the west part of Hidra. During WW II, the German forces had a fort there. It offers a panorama over the coast and the sea beyond. This was part of a line of forts along the south and west coast, Festung Norwegen. The remains are clearly visible, and the whole area has been made into a park, with good information about the history.

We took the bus from Rasvåg, and walked up to the top, only about a kilometer. It was fascinating to see, from the same spot, the dramatic change from the rough and wild coast, to the lush inland and snug communities just inshore.

It’s hard to imagine how it may have been here 80 years ago. Instead of soldiers with guns and uniforms, sheep keep watch now.

Tuesday 1. August

Ellen took the bus home in the morning. I spent the day prepreparing for the trip home by sea, and going for a walk up on the hill above the village. Still very nice weather, sunny and warm, which promised for a good sail up the coast, except that the forecast said north west breeze, up to 20+ knots. Which meant dead ahead.

Vegard, colleague and sailing buddy, came in the afternoon. We had an agreement that I would call him when I was ready to sail home, and if he had the opportunity, he would come and join me. Vegard used to sail a 26 foot IF, and has crossed the open stretch along this coast many times. “It is a bad stretch” he said. “You can always expect difficult conditions.” We discussed whether we should go straight away or wait until later, as the forecast said less wind early next morning.

We decided to go. This boat came already reefed, a racing sailor once remarked on our boat (ref the low mast). When we came out in the open, we still set the main sail with two reefs, which means a smaller sail area. Reef often, and reef early, is a good rule to live by. Another one: A gentleman never beats! But no rule without an exception, or maybe we are not gentlemen, you choose, so for the first six hours or so, we beat into the wind towards the west. That meant not getting any closer to home, just far out into the North Sea. But that was our plan. We used the engine also, making six to seven knots through the night. Soon after midnight, we could turn north and basically follow the coast 15 to 20 nautical miles offshore, gradually drawing closer.

In the beginning the sea was a bit rough. The boat handled it very well though. She does not slam into the waves, in stead cutting through them in an easy manner. Every now and then she was thrown off a sea, slamming sideways into the next wave, sending the water away in a big splash. She never put the side deck under, but did get well washed however. Salt water is good for the teak deck, though, and here it got a good treatment.

Half past ten the full moon came up in the south east, and now and then lit up the sea through the darkest part of the night. It made a good companion, hiding and appearing again behind the clouds. No rain, just dry breeze, warm in the beginning, but as the night wore on, we had to put on more layers of wool and wind proof clothes.

We took two hour watches through the night. When I came up at five in the morning the sea was calmer and the wind just fine. We sailed on past Tananger, rounding Tungenes as the sun broke through. From there we had a nice, easy sail with the wind behind us. It was a relief to stop the engine after fifteen hours continous running and just feel the wind and the sun as we slowly made our way between the islands.

So why did we go when the conditions were not favourable? Well, it wasn’t that bad, especially the last part of the trip. We wouldn’t have gone if we were not confident that it was safe. I had hoped for more southerly winds, though, to be honest, but we needed to get home before the end of the week, and the forecast dis not show any change in wind direction for at least a week. I do look forward to a time when we can do like sailors did before they had engines in their boats, to wait for fair winds and let the elements work for you, instead of working against them. There is always something to do, if nothing else than settling down with a good book. That will be a luxury that we can afford when just sailing for pleasure. I am sure the old sailors were not always pleased with waiting. Some times they went out into bad weather too, because they had to.

Vegard hopped off at Tau. I sailed on home to Talgje, arriving at four o’clock p.m.